The north

Hanoi

Old quarter, lakes, street kitchens.

photo: old quarter at dusk

Hanoi is the capital, and it works at street level: the old quarter runs by trade, the lakes slow the edges, and breakfast is often a chair on a corner with a bowl of pho.

First visits usually land on Hoan Kiem lake, a temple or two, and an evening at the water puppets, then leave for Ha Long or Ninh Binh. Two full days suit the city; a third opens the museums and the coffee streets.

Where to stay

Old quarterTrade streets with guesthouses above the shopfronts; almost everything is on foot.

Around Hoan KiemThe lake side: first hotels, the water puppets and the evening walk, all within a square kilometre.

The French quarterWider streets east of the lake, with the opera house and the grander hotels.

Tay HoThe lake that longer stays drift to: quieter streets, a mix of kitchens, a taxi back to the centre.

When to go

OctNovMarApr

Autumn and spring are the settled stretches, drier and easier on foot. Summer runs hot and humid with afternoon storms. Winter can be grey and damp, and a drizzle settles over the city in January and February.

Tours that start here

All toursAll

photo: bow of a day boat

Half day · HanoiHa Long Bay in one dayBoat, kayak, cave, and back by evening.

photo: sampan between cliffs

Full day · Ninh BinhRiver caves by sampanTemple steps, rice fields, a slow boat.

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Getting there

AirNoi Bai (HAN) sits about 35 km north of the centre: airport bus, taxi or a booked transfer.

RailThe north to south train starts here; the station is a short ride west of the old quarter.

RoadCoaches and limousine vans run to Ninh Binh, Ha Long and the northern provinces.

Questions, answered.

How many days does Hanoi need?Two full days cover the old quarter, the lake and a museum; three if you add the mausoleum quarter and a day trip.

Where do the day trips leave from?Ha Long and Ninh Binh trips usually pick up from old quarter hotels, arranged with the operator the evening before.

Is the old quarter walkable?Mostly, yes. The lanes are narrow and the traffic is close, so walking plus the occasional short taxi is the usual shape of a day.

Other places

photo: limestone water at first light

Ha Long BayBays, caves, overnight boats

photo: lantern street after rain

Hoi AnTailors, lanterns, river evenings

photo: market morning, district one

Ho Chi Minh CityMarkets, museums, coffee floors